Chapter 5
Belgrade
At the threshold of the French impressionist galleries on the second floor of Belgrade's National Museum Aurora Gabriel had a surprise announcement.
"I have a special treat in store for you. Kurt Lange was able to persuade the museum guides to allow our own Dr. Parsons to show us the French paintings. It wasn't easy, I can tell you that; Kurt would make a great labor negotiator. Now I'll turn you over to Dr. Parsons."
Oswald, standing beside a group of canvases by Camille and Lucien Pissarro, began to rock back and forth on his little feet before he spoke.
"Let me tell you the most important thing you'll ever learn about visiting art museums: don't put your weight on your heels. That's the reason most people wear themselves out before they've been through as many as two or three galleries. You must do as I am doing, put a spring in your step and keep your weight well forward, on the balls of your feet."
"Balls," Alice repeated dutifully in Paul's ear.
"Well," Oswald continued, "that's about all I have to say here. Let's move on to the next room."
For lunch the tourists who had come ashore were divided into three groups so that they could sample the charm of the city's small restaurants instead of being steered to a modern hotel. The Pryes' group were taken to Belgrade's oldest cafe, founded by a nineteenth-century physician who had given it a name that was little more than an address, "Cafe beside the Cathedral of the Holy Synod." The clergy, however, were outraged that the cathedral's name had been borrowed by a secular establishment. Forced to remove his signboard, the restaurateur gave vent to anti-authoritarian protest by substituting a new sign that bore only a question mark. To the present day the restaurant was known as the "Question Mark," not an inappropriate trademark for the mid-day meal of an amateur criminologist named Paul Prye.
The Pryes sat with Arkady Grigoriev at a sidewalk table. Dan Eggleston, after taking the mandatory photographs of the smiling tourists and another (perhaps for his own collection) of the famous signboard, joined them.
"Where do you live in Russia?" Dan asked Arkady casually, as if his query were a routine social ice-breaker. The Pryes had wanted to know more about Grigoriev from the moment they had met in Bucharest but they had been put off by the Russian's laconic conversation and by the vague identification of his address in the tour roster. They now hung on his answer to Dan, but it was disappointing:
"I have in my time lived allover the Soviet Union." His
country's name, as he pronounced it quickly, seemed to have two syllables at most.
Alice was emboldened to pitch in. "But Oswald Parsons mentioned that you've taught art history. Where have you done that?"
For the first time Arkady's tongue seemed to loosen a bit. Perhaps it was the effect of the Yugoslav white wine that he had begun to taste:
"Oh, you mustn't make too much of what Dr. Parsons told you. I am not an art historian, as you scholarly Americans understand the term. I have taught at the middle-school level and cannot boast any permanent appointment. I've taught wherever the Ministry of Education has found a need. Mrs. Prye, that word may not be appropriate, my English is not strong. I suppose the 'need' for art teachers in the Soviet Union is not great given our more pressing problems. But our country is, of course, vast and therefore my career has taken me to many places from Moscow to eastern Siberia."
The Pryes exchanged a marital signal. Grigoriev had detected from Alice's reaction to their Bucharest conversation about Caravaggio that he must have made a blunder and had been waiting for an opportunity to explain, however obliquely. He was obviously a careful man who did not like to be found in error.
Dan Eggleston's expression showed plainly that he was not satisfied by the explanation. He was the kind of companion that the Pryes often liked to meet at parties but would not have considered safe to invite to their house. Dan evidently felt that if he asked too many questions it was not his problem; Arkady was perfectly free to tell him off or to refuse to answer. It wasn't a matter of good manners but of playing the odds. Sometimes you got an answer and sometimes you didn't.
Dan put his next question in the form of a comment. "It's interesting to have you aboard with us. We don't see too many Russians on the American-sponsored tours."
The question did not overshoot Arkady's limits, whatever they were.
"That is correct, Mr. Eggleston, but I am convinced that you will see more of us in the future. We used to travel on trade missions, or in professional groups, but now we come to admire the European culture in which we are, to a large degree, participants. Perhaps, as we withdraw our troops from Eastern Europe, we will send you Soviet tourists instead. This will be the new parity of the 1990's."
Dan Eggleston warmed to the idea. "I hope you're right, we can always use the business. But, frankly, what really surprised me is that we see you here traveling alone. Is it hard to get permission?"
Grigoriev smiled. "Not as hard as you Americans might think. You see, a middle-school art teacher is not commonly the bearer of state secrets."
The Pryes could almost hear the veil of concealment (or was it privacy?) being drawn. There would be no more questions.
* * *
Paul and Alice had signed up for the second of the ship's kitchen tour groups. The first tour, which began shortly after the return from the Belgrade shore excursion, was running overtime and the Pryes waited in the restaurant for someone to guide them. Paul was the only man in the group and felt a little out of place, but Alice would not let him escape. Instead, she tried to include him in her conversation with Liz Szabo. Liz explained her husband's absence:
"Andy's got this thing about food. His mother was a beautiful woman who got enormously fat, and he's scared to death I'm going to suffer the same horrible fate. He knew there would be a lot of food on an Austrian cruise ship. I don't know to this day why he picked this tour."
"Kitty James mentioned something about your wanting to visit Budapest on your honeymoon." Paul remembered their introduction at the orientation dinner.
"That's right, but I'm sure we could have found a low-cal trip, without all that -- what do you call the poppyseed dumplings we get for every other dessert?"
"According to the chef, they're Waldviertler," Paul said. He had been struggling for years to master German. "But if Andy's complaining now, wait until we get to Budapest. We've got
a Hungarian banquet scheduled for Gundel's restaurant."
Alice tried to cheer Liz. "Actually, I've heard that the gypsy music cuts down on the calories, or maybe it just reduces the appetite." Paul suddenly brightened when he saw Ken Mestnik enter the restaurant to add to the token male representation. Ken, exuberant as ever, told them that he was a gourmet cook and always regarded the kitchen tour as a highlight of the Danube cruise. Like an industrial spy, he had brought along a notebook. Paul suspected that Ken was planning to make a list of the chef's secret ingredients. When Liz Szabo congratulated him on his Romanian lecture, the faintness of Ken's acknowledgment was not a sign of modesty. All his passion was bent on their admission into the chef's magic domain.
At last Aurora Gabriel arrived to serve as their escort, but when she ushered them into the kitchen, the Pryes were surprised to find that the prior group had not fully vacated the premises. The scene looked like a comic nightmare from a Marx Brothers movie that was too insane to have been released; Alice could even imagine its title on an art-deco marquee, Too Many Cooks. While the chef stood aside in helpless fury, visitors swarmed allover the kitchen, hefting cooking utensils, sniffing at spice jars, even poking into cabinets and freezers. It was clear from the direction of his stare that the chef blamed Aurora for the disorder.
The new group seemed unaware of the chaos. Most of their talk seemed to focus on the utilitarian stainless steel that covered almost all surfaces. Kitty James confessed that she'd never replaced her formica counter tops. Selma Westover had corian in her townhouse, but had just installed granite in her country kitchen. A haughty Spanish woman whom the Pryes had not met let it be known above the din that she had not visited her kitchen recently and could not describe it.
While crosscurrents of house and garden repartee swirled about him, Ken Mestnik solemnly admired slabs of beef that had been placed on the cutting boards to be sliced for the evening's entree of Tafelspitz. He flared his nostrils to inhale the fumes of a chive sauce that was brewing in a huge kettle. As Aurora finally motioned her charges to the door, Ken floated out as if in a trance.
It was a half hour after the kitchen had returned to normal that the chef said to the pastry cook:
"Haben Sie mein Messer gesehen?"
The chef was right to have been suspicious of the unruly Americans. He could not find his boning knife. After the pastry cook and he had searched the kitchen without success, the chef stalked off to complain to Hugo Preger. Amused but only too familiar with the chef's fiery temperament, the first officer promised to talk to the tour leader, Kurt Lange.
In the late afternoon the second channel came on. Kurt Lange spoke with all the insouciance at his command.
"We hope you've all enjoyed the kitchen tours. It's fire drill at 5:00 and Professor Mestnik at 5:30, then two nights and a day to relax on the Danube before we reach Budapest.
"I have a little message for you from the chef. No, it's not a change in the menu. You'll still have your choice of veal strips in cream sauce or prime boiled beef, followed by 'Gundel' pancakes to prepare you for our night in Budapest. It's a more personal matter the chef has asked me to bring up. It seems that during the kitchen tours the chef's favorite boning knife has been -- mislaid. It's a sharp knife, nothing to touch carelessly, with the name of the ship burned into the handle. Now it does not seem likely to me, despite the sensitivity of our chef, that one of you could have taken it as a souvenir. In any case, I would remind you that mementos of the cruise can be purchased at the gift shop near the reception desk on main deck.
"That's more than enough said, and I add the following only at the insistence of the chef. He's requested me to say that the return of the knife will be gratefully accepted, no questions asked. There, I've now done my duty, except to repeat that the chef, like all great artists, is a sensitive man. We'd all hate to see his cuisine deteriorate."
Alice was not at all pleased to be told that she was cruising the Danube with a kleptomaniac or a moody chef, or both, and she was not much happier to have to don her life jacket and rally near the life boats on the sun deck for the abruptly announced drill.
"This is ridiculous," she fumed to Paul as she took her station. "Have you ever heard of a fire-drill on a river boat? I guess we were lucky they didn't hand out parachutes on our Burgundy barge." Kitty James, overhearing Alice, offered an explanation:
"You don't see the point, shame on you; it's another photo opportunity. Hide your face, here comes Dan Eggleston."
Alice would have followed her advice if there had been anywhere to hide because she'd never looked her best in orange "Mae Wests."
Ken Mestnik, his mind probably on his next lecture, produced another justification for the drill that was uncharacteristically pedantic:
"It's probably a ritual in honor of St. Florian, the patron saint of Upper Austria. He was drowned in the Danube."
"That may be wonderful old-time religion," said Claudia Parsons, looking like a monument in her straining life-jacket, "but nowadays we can all swim."
Not everyone in the group agreed with her. A few passengers, nervously identifying their lifeboats, remarked that, left to their own devices, they'd never make it to the nearest shore.
While fire drillers waited for Captain Wahl to inspect their ranks, Bert James told the Pryes the results of his two days' study of social life on the Anton Bruckner.
"They claim we're near full capacity, but I don't believe it. We must be a lot closer to 40 aboard than 60. It must be all the political upheavals of the last year. Nobody wants to be caught in the middle of a - - -." He groped for a sufficiently melodramatic example.
"How about an assassination attempt in Ruse, for instance?" Kitty suggested to her vague husband.
"Oh, yes, I'd almost forgotten that for a moment." He lost his train of thought, and before he could rediscover it, Captain Wahl, speaking through a bullhorn, congratulated all the passengers on their jacket lacings and dismissed them.
At dinner, however, Bert had once again taken up the thread of the Anton Bruckner's social labyrinth. He told his tablemates:
"The ship doctor, Walther Hoppe, is a nice fellow, he's a graduate of the Vienna medical school. He seems to be traveling with his wife. At least I think he said she's his wife, but I may have lost something in translation. He's got some accent. Her name's Gisela; you must have noticed her, a real knockout with ashblond hair.
"By the way, Gisela's some kidder. She speaks flawless English, and when I asked where she had learned to speak so well, guess what .she told me."
"We wouldn't dare," Alice said.
"Well, without batting an eye, she said, 'I learned my English in bed. That's where I've picked up all my foreign languages; it's the one place you never have to use the subjunctive. '"
"She sounds like a dear," Kitty suggested.
Bert treasured his recollection before proceeding with his shipboard.survey.
"Anyway, where was I? It's a amazingly cliquish tour. There are the Spanish, of course, or maybe they're Venezuelans. They pretty much keep to themselves and spend a lot of time in the gift shop. Most of them seem to be down below on Neptune deck.
"Then we have the penthouse bunch. They've got the large cabins on the sun deck and seem to know each other from back home. They're the folks who keep the bartenders busy and don't seem all that keen on land excursions."
"Are the Westovers part of the penthouse set?" Alice asked.
"They live up there and probably have the biggest suite of all. But they seem to be treated like social outcasts; maybe it's because of all the publicity about their tax problem. Whatever the reason, the penthouse dwellers don't like them, and the result seems. to be that Charles and Selma -- when they're not cursing their accountant -- seem to be a tad more sociable to the mere mortals below.
"That brings me to the good guys, the salt of the earth, the folks in the main deck cabins. Us for example," he explained, circling the table with his benevolent look. Arlene Bennett smiled back wanly.
"By the way, Pryes and Ritos, you seem to be missing half the fun on board."
"That's Rito and Bennett," Jim reminded him. Paul did not think that Bert had intended more than a clumsy shorthand.
Before Bert could continue his report Aurora Gabriel drew up a chair.
"How are things going?" she asked their table. Alice thought Aurora wasn't making much of an effort to disguise the fact that she was "coordinating" them. The East-Europa training handbook must have ordered her to make her rounds of the tables on the first night out of Belgrade.
But Bert took her question as a spontaneous burst of friendly interest. "Well, it depends whether you're talking about the tour or the poker. Kitty and I are planning to get our revenge tonight. with pigeons like us aboard, I bet East-Europa doesn't have to pay you and the doc more than your fares."
Aurora's smile faded and she was hunting for a reply when Kitty came to her rescue. "Get over it," she told Bert irritably. "Don't blame Aurora and Hoppe; when it comes to cards, you just can't keep your heels out of the egg yolk. Sometimes I think you must be color blind."
Paul thought it best to ask Aurora about their next stop, Budapest.
"It's my first visit," she said in a confessional tone. "I'm afraid it's going to be a hectic day. We dock on the Pest side, and by the time we get back to the ship we'll barely have time to change for the dinner at Gundel's. Have you seen the brochure? The garden looks like it hasn't changed at all from the nineteenth century." She left them a pamphlet about the restaurant and moved on to talk to the Westovers and Mark and Basil Drewry.
"Which one's Hoppe?" asked Alice when Aurora had left.
Bert figured that Alice was more impressed with his anecdote about Gisela than she had let on. "He's sitting opposite the captain and Gisela's at his left." He leered at Paul, hoping for confirmation of his high opinion of Gisela, whose backless piquet dress was very flattering.
"She's lovely," Alice said, and Bert, who was satisfied, continued:
"Well anyway Walther and Gisela are great friends of the main deckers. After dinner we gather in the starlight Lounge for drinks and the night owls stay for poker. By the way, how is it Table 5 never joins us? You're missing the best part of the cruise. We can forgive Jim and Arlene for - what did Gilbert and Sullivan say? - 'seeking the seclusion that a cabin grants'. They're young and foolish. But what's your excuse, Pryes? People are beginning to talk."
Kitty was speechless, not her usual state, but nobody else took offense; the naivete of Bert's good humor was open for all to see. To reassure Kitty, the Pryes agreed to have their coffee with them in the Starlight Lounge. Jim Rito and Arlene Bennett, after a discreet and amicable conference, came along.
Table 5 was the first to arrive in the cocktail lounge. Waiting for their coffee to be brought, Bert maintained his shameless conviviality.
"This is the place where everybody lets their hair down. If you know your way around, it's a different woman every night."
The Pryes wondered what in the world he could be talking about, but judged from Kitty's bored reaction that it must be something pretty harmless. They were right.
Bert reached into his wallet for souvenirs of his first three nights on the rlver. with a pride that was only partly charade, he showed them photographs of his card table at the Starlight Lounge. The subject matter and pose were always the same. The focus was on Bert, his cards spread fan-like in his hands, a broad smile on his face that left only a few teeth concealed, and a woman's arms encircling his neck. One night it was Aurora Gabriel who embraced him and then her place was taken by Claudia Parsons, whose clasp seemed tighter. A third woman seemed embarrassed by the pose and quite out of place, as if she had been forced to poke her stylish head through a photographer's cardboard Calamity Jane in a wild-west amusement park: it was Gisela Hoppe, the ship doctor's wife.
One by one the Starlight regulars began to trickle in. Bert James greeted them all, determined to play host. The Westovers came in with Aurora Gabriel, and Claudia Parsons followed, her arm around Andy Szabo's waist. Paul and Alice were surprised to see Mark Drewry wheel his uncle up to the bar.
"The old man keeps late hours," Alice said to Paul. "There seems to be a lot of strength left in his elbow."
Believing they had now done their duty, the Pryes said goodnight to Bert and Kitty James. They noticed that Jim Rito and Arlene Bennett had already beaten them to the door.
* * *
A little after 2:00 a.m. Captain Wahl, leaning over the railing as he enjoyed the night's last cigar, looked down on the main deck below. The deck was quiet, except that when he craned his neck to the right the captain caught sight of young Drewry pushing the wheelchair aft at a gentle pace. The old gentleman was completely covered with blankets to protect him against the early morning chill. "What a dutiful young man," Wahl thought as he gazed at the receding back of the figure pushing the chair, "just like children used to be." He threw his cigar into the Danube, and retired for the night.
About an hour later a sailor mopping the main deck saw a bulky rectangular object silhouetted against the railing thirty feet ahead of him. At first he thought it was a deck chair but when he approached he realized that its back and seat were not of canvas; it 'was the wheelchair that the elderly passenger used. The wheelchair was empty. Odd that it should be here. The invalid's young male nurse or companion, whatever he was, was accustomed to wheel the old man in the fresh air but why would he leave the chair here? Could the old man walk, at least with assistance? The sailor did not give the question much thought. He knew that First Officer preger had given his permission for the wheelchair to be kept in the lobby, and he had half a mind to collapse it and carry it back to its usual storage place. He thought better of the idea, though, and decided to mind his own business. |